With preparation complete, it's time to start installing. AS/NZS 2053 outlines a clear process for joining and securing PVC electrical pipe fittings, and following these steps ensures a system that meets both safety and performance standards. Let's walk through each phase in detail.
1. Cutting and Deburring: The Foundation of a Smooth Run
Start by measuring the conduit to the required length, adding a small buffer (1-2mm) to account for fitting depth. Secure the pipe in a vice or clamp to prevent movement, then use a ratchet cutter for straight, clean cuts. For larger diameter pipes (over 50mm), a hacksaw with a fine-tooth blade works, but take care to keep the cut perpendicular to the pipe axis—angled cuts can lead to weak joints. After cutting, immediately deburr both the inside and outside edges. A rough inside edge can abrade wires during pulling, while a sharp outside edge may damage insulation or make fitting insertion difficult. Run the deburring tool around the inside diameter until the edge is smooth, then chamfer the outside edge slightly to ease insertion into fittings.
2. Dry Fitting: Test Before You Glue
Dry fitting is a critical but often skipped step. Before applying any solvent cement, assemble the conduit and fittings to check for proper alignment and fit. insert the pipe into the fitting socket until it hits the stop (a raised ridge inside the fitting that marks the maximum insertion depth). If the pipe is too short, the joint will be weak; if it's too long, it may kink or block the conduit. Use a marker to trace the edge of the fitting onto the pipe—this line will serve as a guide during gluing, ensuring you insert the pipe to the correct depth. If the dry fit reveals misalignment (e.g., a bend that's slightly off-angle), adjust the route or replace the fitting. Remember: once solvent cement is applied, adjustments are nearly impossible without cutting the joint and starting over.
3. Solvent Cement Application: The Science of Bonding
Solvent cement isn't just glue—it's a chemical that temporarily melts the PVC surface, allowing the pipe and fitting to fuse into a single piece. To apply it correctly:
-
Clean the surfaces:
Wipe the pipe end and fitting socket with a clean, dry cloth to remove dirt, oil, or moisture. For stubborn grime, use a PVC cleaner (available from your
pipes fittings supplier
)—avoid using alcohol or solvents that may leave residues.
-
Apply cement to both surfaces:
Using the applicator, apply a thin, even coat of solvent cement to the outside of the pipe (up to the marked insertion line) and a second coat to the inside of the fitting socket. Ensure full coverage—missed spots will result in weak bonds.
-
insert immediately:
Push the pipe into the fitting quickly and firmly until it reaches the stop, then give it a 1/4-turn twist to spread the cement evenly. Hold the joint for 30-60 seconds (or as recommended by the cement manufacturer) to prevent it from slipping—PVC is slippery when wet, and even a small shift can break the bond.
-
Wipe excess cement:
Use a rag to remove any oozing cement from the joint. Excess cement can harden into a sharp bead that may damage wires or collect debris.
Allow the joint to cure fully before applying stress—cure times vary by temperature and humidity (typically 24 hours at 20°C), so check the cement label for guidelines. Rushing this step is a common mistake: a partially cured joint may seem strong, but it will fail under pressure, leading to leaks or separation.
4. Securing the Conduit: Supports That Stand the Test of Time
Even the best joints won't hold if the conduit isn't properly supported. AS/NZS 2053 specifies minimum support spacing based on conduit diameter, as shown in the table below:
Conduit Diameter (mm)
|
Maximum Support Spacing (Horizontal Runs, meters)
|
Maximum Support Spacing (Vertical Runs, meters)
|
16-20
|
1.5
|
2.0
|
25-32
|
2.0
|
2.5
|
40-50
|
2.5
|
3.0
|
63+
|
3.0
|
3.5
|
Supports should be placed within 300mm of fittings to prevent stress on joints, and they must be compatible with the installation surface (e.g., masonry anchors for brick walls, wood screws for timber frames). Avoid using supports that pinch the conduit—over-tightened clamps can deform the pipe, reducing its internal diameter and restricting wire pulling. For outdoor installations, use UV-resistant supports to prevent brittleness from sun exposure.
5. Testing the System: Peace of Mind Through Verification
Once the conduit run is installed and the cement is fully cured, it's time to test the system. AS/NZS 2053 requires two key tests:
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Pull test:
Pull a dummy wire (or the actual wires, if installing immediately) through the conduit to ensure there are no obstructions or sharp edges. If resistance is encountered, stop and investigate—don't force the wire, as this can damage insulation.
-
Visual inspection:
Check all joints for gaps or signs of incomplete fusion (e.g., visible cement beads that haven't been wiped). Ensure supports are secure and the conduit run is level/vertical as needed. For underground installations, verify that the conduit is buried to the required depth (typically 500mm for domestic, 750mm for commercial) to protect against accidental digging damage.